Clutch issue?
- Thread starter rick458
- Start date
NorthwoodGT
GT Owner
that doesn't make a lot of sense to me but maybe the first thing I would do is a clutch line bleed off in case there is any air or fluid got low. jmo
Agree with Scott that this symptom is kinda odd. My assumption is that you are getting only very minimal clutch disengagement (with engine running) and when engine is off, this minimum disengagement is not breaking some initial friction. I also agree that you should bleed the clutch line. Note that low clutch fluid will not in itself cause any problems - the ONLY issue with low fluid is that if it gets too low, air can enter the system. The cars are all getting to an age where the clutch fluid definitely needs to be purged out of the system!
Xcentric
GT Owner
Brakes also tend to stop a car. Check for drag. Parking brake completely off?
If you haven't been changing the brake fluid at least every two years, any absorbed moisture can corrode caliper pistons and cylinders.
If you haven't been changing the brake fluid at least every two years, any absorbed moisture can corrode caliper pistons and cylinders.
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Special K
GT Owner
I've noticed this on other makes and reason was leaking engine oil and/or gear oil getting on the clutch disk making it "sticky."
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If the clutch is dragging, I would think shifting would be difficult or the gears would (could) grind. I would be looking at the brakes...
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TO AWSUM
Ford GT Owner
I wouldn't worry about it. Could also be low tire pressure so the tire contact area is flatter than before -- assuming it rolled on that same incline before. When I changed from the stock Goodyears to the Bridgestones, my car didn't roll as easily out of my inclined trailer while unloading.
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Myself and several others had a similar issue on the track at UMC when hot. Asked a few people, Rich included, and my fluid had not been changed/bled and was therefore compromised. My level was also a little low. Added some and the clutch issues mostly resolved. I'll be completely flushing my clutch fluid ASAP.
Gentlemen,
Over the last 12 years I've changed every fluid in my GT several times. Many of our members cars are very low mileage but they are still 12 years old. If this describes you get your GT into a knowledgeable shop soon and change all of your fluids, brake, hydraulic, radiator, oil, trans fluid, you name it. Every time fluid gets hot and then cools condensation forms. Low mileage cars are often not driven long enough for this water to burn off. Change those fluids!
Chip
Over the last 12 years I've changed every fluid in my GT several times. Many of our members cars are very low mileage but they are still 12 years old. If this describes you get your GT into a knowledgeable shop soon and change all of your fluids, brake, hydraulic, radiator, oil, trans fluid, you name it. Every time fluid gets hot and then cools condensation forms. Low mileage cars are often not driven long enough for this water to burn off. Change those fluids!
Chip
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Again, the LEVEL of the fluid has NOTHING to do with the operation of the clutch. You can have either 1/8" of fluid or all the way full - it does not have any effect on the operation of a hydraulic clutch. The critical thing about the fluid is that you do not want to let it get so low that air will be drawn into the system. When/if this happens, you'll pretty much know right away.
Chip has good advice. Regardless of mileage, the cars are 11-12 years old. Make sure you keep up with fresh fluids. The clutch fluid is particularly susceptible to age (water contamination) because the reservoir is so small. The fluid will start looking bad and will eventually turn to a snotty/jelly texture. Gross, eh? That's the idea.... to gross you out so that you are motivated to change it!
TO AWSUM
Ford GT Owner
Yup, that's what I do also. Drain the clutch master cylinder and clean it before adding fresh fluid for a flush. I also change my clutch and brake fluid at least annually and definitely before every track event.
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PeteK
GT Owner
That's easy to do with the clutch reservoir, not easy with the brake reservoir. The brake reservoir is welded together and has a float built into it, so you can only suck out about half the fluid. When I changed the brake fluid, I loosened the steel lines coming from the reservoir and put an old towel under the master cylinder to catch the old fluid leaking out. Easy and not too messy. Hose everything off afterwards to get an brake fluid off any painted parts. It will peel the paint.