Re-Use or Replace Electrical Connector?


KJRGT

GT Owner
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May 4, 2006
2,840
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Hi guys.

I need to replace my high placed stop light and the new one comes with wiring but not a new female electrical connector.

Is there a way to reuse this one or do I need to try to replace it?

Thanks!



 

PL510*Jeff

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Nov 3, 2005
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Wait until the replacement part arrives. I would guess it's re-useable. Had mine replaced years ago and however don't recall any parts issues.
 

FENZO

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Jul 7, 2008
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Lafayette, CO
Do the wires on the new part have the terminals (metal parts) on the end of the wire or are they just wires? The wire terminals lock into the connector by some sort of snap fit. Usually you can use a scribe to unlock the terminal and pull the wire with the seal out of the connector.

I don't know about this one specifically, but I've seen types where they are spring loaded where you can compress a part of the terminal and pull the wire out and others where you have to bend little tabs to pull them out. There are ones that have a plastic clip that hold the wires in, that doesn't appear to be the case here.

Point is.. there is a way to release the wire/terminal from the connector.
 

KJRGT

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Thanks Jeff and Fenzo,
The new brake wires have no connector or terminals. Only wire endings. I picked it up today.
I'll have to better scrutinize the connector to see if there are release points of some type.
 

PeteK

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Apr 18, 2014
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I'm not sure what you mean. Does the new brake light have the metal pins already crimped onto the wires, but missing the plastic housing? Or does it just have bare wire ends? Either way I'm surprised it didn't have a regular connector on it. Are you sure this is a genuine Ford part?

If you just have bare wire ends, and are thinking of grafting the connector from the old brake light onto the new brake light don't bother trying to pull apart the old connector to pull the wires out. You will not be able to uncrimp the pins and reuse them on the new wires. Instead, just cut the connector plus a few inches of wire off the old brake light, and splice the wires together.
 

Specracer

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As mentioned, the existing connector does come apart. There are specific tools for this:

https://www.amazon.com/molex-connector-removal/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:molex connector removal

But once apart, the pins are crimped on. Depending on your patients, they can be a pain to release the old wire, with out damaging the pin, and recrimping to new wire. Probably a better plan to try to source a new pins (at minimum) knowing that if you can't, it's possible to reuse, but tricky.

I have one of those lights, I'm curious if mine doesn't have the connector.
 

Nafod

GT Owner
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Great link for the tools and connector kits at the bottom. Thank you.

I'm guessing the brake light in question was supplied by Ford? I would think they would have the connector, unless the part supply is starting to dry up.

That said, my mech at the Ford dealer keeps a box of old wiring connectors to salvage various clips and part for just this reason. He helped me out with a

locking clip for the MAF connector on my F 350. Maybe your guy at your local dealer could help you out.

Personally, I would lean towards the splice with a soldiered joint and heat shrink. this keeps the connector in its original condition.

Bruce
 

Specracer

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I just checked the one that I got several years ago, and it doesnt have a connector either. If sourcing a new connector isnt an option, I would solder and heat shrink. I dont have access to my GT right now, does the wire loom have to be transferred to the new light also (looks like it in the pics)? If so you have the opportunity to hide the splice with the loom. Make sure you get the polarity right as LED's dont work backwards.
 

KJRGT

GT Owner
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May 4, 2006
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Sorry I was not more clear, but as Spec says the two-wire loom that comes with the new light fixture ends with bare wires.

I think the best way go about this is to do as suggested, solder and heat shrink it, then run it through the loom.

Since the loom, between lamp and connector, runs inside the interior and exterior rear hatch body panels, now I just need to think through the logistics of how to remove the old wires while pulling the new ones through the rear hatch. Guess I clip original wires near the original lamp, attach ends of the new wires to the original wires , then pull original and new wires through the rear hatch panels and toward inside of the rear hatch, till they pop out of the hole.

Am I thinking right here?
 
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FENZO

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That should work, and with them spliced I'm sure you will have no issues.

I'd still try to source the terminals and put it back as original.
 

FENZO

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A quick search for "terminal" for a Ford GT on fordparts.com yields the parts below. I'll bet it's 14487A. :thumbsup

RenderIllustration.ashx.jpg
 

PeteK

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Apr 18, 2014
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I'd still try to source the terminals and put it back as original.
Why bother? The splice will be hidden inside a panel. Unless you have the right crimping tools too, you won't match the factory crimps for strength and electrical continuity. Better to splice the old one on with solder and heat-shrink.
 

FENZO

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Why bother?

Because it would always be in the back of my mind that I cut the wires and half-assed the repair. Even though I agree splicing would be 100% effective I'd still be p-o'd if, for example, this happened under warranty and a Ford tech cut/spliced the wires.

If you have solder, a soldering gun, heat shrink, and a heat shrink gun why don't you have a ratcheting terminal crimper? They are ~$20.
 

KJRGT

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I'm still trying to figure out how do I extract the original wires and terminals from the connector housing itself without damaging it. As the second photo shows, the wires first enter the connector into a red plastic part before the terminal.

A Ford tech most likely has access to another female connector. I did my best to find this connector in the 2005 GT Wiring Diagrams manual and while one wiring illustration shows it as C475, the illustration in the connector section looks nothing the same. It only shows the male connector, can't find the female.

The terminal very well may be a 14487A. If I get it out I can verify just which terminal to replace with.

I do have a terminal crimper tool.....but I must admit not a ratcheting crimper. Learn something new every day!
 
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FENZO

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Ok.. since I ran my big mouth about it, figured I owed it to you to help extract the wires. This is the connector for the clam switch, but they are exactly the same. Was just easier for me to access.

First you pull out the rubber seal (rectagular orange thing, 1st pic)
Then pop out the retaining clip (other orange thing, 1st pic)
Then press back the clips on the connector (arrow is pointing at it, 2nd pic) to release the wires
You may be able to re-use the wire seals (ribbed green rubber things, 3rd pic) when you source terminals

Good luck! :thumbsup

IMG_7594.jpg
IMG_7598.JPG
IMG_7595.jpg
 
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fjpikul

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Special Ed is having a coronary with you using a dental pic and putting on a tire. For shame.
 

KJRGT

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Fenzo I greatly appreciate your time, efforts and instructional advice. Will give it a go this weekend.
 

sr71

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While you're messing with this, I might suggest an addition. I added a small circuit from Mini-go that causes the third eye brake light to flash 3 or 4 times when activated, then stay full on. I figured the flash would be just a little more inclined to alert people to the fact that you are stopping ahead of them.
 

KJRGT

GT Owner
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May 4, 2006
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SoCal
I like your idea r71, but I wanted to get this done today and did not add that feature.
Thanks for your advice fellas, especially Fenzo.
Once again I have a high mount stop lamp in working order!
Next up, change out the fuel filter.