Gauge Replacement - How to


nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,176
Several here have asked for a step by step gauge replacement how-to. We’ve done our fair share of gauge replacements and upgrades – maybe a couple of dozen, so here are the steps from our experience. Note that a couple of the harder steps are right up front (disconnecting the harnesses), so if you can get past these, you may be on your way!
1. Disconnect the Battery.
Remove the inner bonnet liner and use an 8mm wrench to loosen the ground terminal on the battery and remove.
2. Disconnect the Instrument Cluster harness connectors.
Working in the driver’s side footwell, look at the highest connectors on the driver’s side kick panel. You will see a larger harness that Y’s into two connectors. Before the Y, the haness is often labeled “Instrument cluster”. You will need to disconnect both connectors – one at each end of the Y. Also, securing the cable in place will be a nylon press-in locator. You will need to un-secure this tie-down point. With the connectors and this nylon locators un-done, push up on the harness a bit and make sure it is not caught on anything.
3. In preparation for the gauge panel removal, you will want to use a lot of blue protective tape to insure that known of the plastic is scratched. Refer to the picture below of the blue-taped binnacle. Note that you will not remove the binnacle as we have in the picture, but this should give you an idea of the tape coverage. Also tape over the switches. Finally, adjust the steering wheel to its lowest possible position. Tape the top of the steering wheel and then place a towel over the exposed part of the steering column.

TapedBinnacle.JPG

4. With everything taped and a cloth on the steering column, you are ready to remove instrument panel. Using a small Torx screwdriver, carefully remove all of the screws in the face of the panel. With the screws removed, grasp the perimeter of the water temp gauge and try to pull it forward. The left side of the cluster needs to come forward first, followed by the speedometer which comes out last (because it needs to move slightly right to left). Be patient, as tugging the cluster forward is often not easy. Just take your time…. scoot the seat forward and make yourself comfortable. It way be necessary to angle the panel slightly upward of downward in order to wiggle it forward. Also, it sometimes helps to press up on the “roof” of the binnacle with your knuckles as you pull the panel forward. Again, work it gently and you’ll get it!
5. As the cluster pulls forward, make sure the harness behind it isn’t hanging you up. Eventually you will be able to pull the cluster toward you and then to lie it facedown on the towel you have on the steering column. See the picture below. Note: In almost all cases you will NOT have enough room to completely remove the cluster from the car as you will not be able to “clear” the connectors at the end of the harness.

GaugesFaceDown.JPG

6. It is in this position – facedown on the column, that I would recommend that you replace the errant gauge. You will likely need to remove one or more nylon ties. Carefully note the position so you can replace them exactly. (Even though we have done this more than a dozen times, we still take a couple of digital pics – just in case.)
7. With the replacement gauge(s) in place, assembly is simply the reverse of the steps mentioned. The cluster will likely fight you a bit when you are trying to push it back in place. First in is the speedometer (right) side and then work the left side in. You may need to change the angle (up/down) and also press up on the hood of the binnacle. Eventually, you will get it pressed back into place.
8. Re-install the Torx screws and then crawl back under the dash to re-connect the harnesses and press the locator back into its place. Finally, reconnect the battery.
Feel free to PM or email me if you have any questions.
 
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Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,361
Washington State
'Absolutely EXCELLENT (not to mention useful!) post!!!
 

Nardo GT

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2006
2,300
Texas
Thank you for sharing this. A gentleman as usual!
 
H

HHGT

Guest
Great write up Kendal.
 
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GT35065

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Really nice info. I feel like I could attempt this on my own with these instructions. Appreciate your time on this.
 

ViperJoe

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 17, 2006
1,305
Washington Crossing, PA
Thanks Kendall - Can you post a couple photos of the electrical connectors on the cluster harness that need to be unpluged?
 

KJD

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Dec 21, 2005
1,012
Location, Location
Really nice info. I feel like I could attempt this on my own with these instructions. Appreciate your time on this.

+1 Kendall!!!

No way I'd ordinarily try this if ever necessary but your step-by-step instructions and helpful hints make it sound doable.

And thanks too for the cautions re: taping and patience!!
 

Fubar

Totally ****** Up
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Aug 2, 2006
3,979
Dallas, TX
Thanks Kendall, I wish I had seen this before I tackled the instrument cluster the first time.

For anyone thinking about this job, it's not difficult just time consuming. Actually getting the cluster backed out was the biggest test of my patience. I was fortunate that my father was a Marine and taught me several good methods for venting frustration. I would only add one thing; if you decide to remove all of the connecting wires from the instrument cluster, take special note of the connector that attaches to the circuit board at the bottom (engine lights and odometer board) There is one connector there that can be easily attached backwards when reinstalling. If you do this... you fry the board so DONT. I would recommend you put some whiteout or borrow the wife's nail polish to mark it for later reference. When I reinstalled my instruments, I did not mark it and had to sit there and look at it for about 45 minutes... then I called my dad and asked for some help with new cuss words, he was more than happy to oblige. I even called Rich and asked him. In the end, I had a 50/50 shot at it and got lucky. I marked it immediately after it began to function properly.
 

mardyn

GT Owner
Dec 20, 2005
490
Beautiful East Texas
Success!

FGTdashremoval04-25-2011019.jpg


The tips listed are invaluable to this process... my only other suggestion would be to double up on the tape on the
left hand side of the dash binnacle as it's really tight coming out on that curved area, take lotso' pics, which I did...

My total time this morning on it was probably about 1 hour.

Thanks so much for this post.

mardyn
 

soroush

Ford Gt Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 8, 2007
5,256
great post!
 

DanielJ

GT Owner
Dec 21, 2010
298
Washington State
Great to have this information. I'm sure I'll get my turn at this.....

Thanks again for sharing this information. DJ
 

twobjshelbys

GT Owner
Jul 26, 2010
6,053
Las Vegas, NV
I replaced my failed boost gauge this weekend. I spent an hour trying to get the cables released. I had to take out the two lower connectors to get access, managed to get the lower one but with my big paws I simply couldn't get ahold of the top one. After talking with Rich @ GT Guys it is not necessary to remove the cables if you are just swapping a gauge. There is enough slack to pull the gauge panel out and "lay it down" to do the swap. Getting the panel is tough the first time. I didn't want to force things and now knowing where it gets hung up I can probably pull it in 10 minutes, including the time to put all that blue tape down.
 

nautoncall

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 6, 2014
1,093
Great info. I replaced a gauge. I would have never attempted without this!!!


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bonehead

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 18, 2012
2,814
Houston, TX
Tony/nautoncall, did you get your hands on the new Autometer gauges or or you using the old (and expensive) ones? If the latter, why!?!?
 

nautoncall

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 6, 2014
1,093
I changed out a Speedhut speedo.

I'm curious too has anyone installed a new Autometer?? If so... Pics compared to stock??


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twobjshelbys

GT Owner
Jul 26, 2010
6,053
Las Vegas, NV
Tony/nautoncall, did you get your hands on the new Autometer gauges or or you using the old (and expensive) ones? If the latter, why!?!?

My Boost Gauge died a while ago, long before Autometer came through with the next generation, so I bought a replacement original. Going through the emissions work (I had to revert some of the mods) I just decided working on the car was so much fun that I decided to tackle the gauge. I put things off and it took this to get motivated. The only awful part would have been if I'd really had to pull the cable. My shoulder hurt so miuch (I am getting some bursitis) from trying to twist and reach up there that I was happy I didn't have to do it.

Of course now with the news of replacements except for the two big gauges, it would still be a good change to swap over to the Speedhuts. I'd need a limber (younger) person to pull that top cable though :)
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,526
Greenwood, IN
Thanks Kendall and Mark!
Excellent contribution thread to maintaining our car.
As one owner expressed, the instructions are so detailed it really seems like a dooable operation!
 

Specracer

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Nov 28, 2005
7,081
MA
I changed mine myself. Reviewed this thread before for an idea. I didn't have any substantial challenges. A bonus, I had a working tach and oil pressure when done.
 

nautoncall

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 6, 2014
1,093
As Kendall said....TAPE, TAPE, TAPE!!!! My car had the Speedhuts before I got it and you can see a couple scratches on the panel when they had been changed prior. Some of my tape came off by the Speedo and I put a couple new scratches on it like a dummy!!! That new Speedhut "brushed aluminum dash" that comes with the complete gauge kit has very sharp edges. It's a pretty raw cut, so it is very sharp. Just be extra careful and again...TAPE, TAPE, TAPE!!
 

Specracer

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Nov 28, 2005
7,081
MA
Actually its a balance. If you use too much tape it gets caught up and keeps the panel from coming out....