Gauge Replacement - How to

When I put in the left side of the gauge panel it will not go into the left bracket hole. I do not know if it is the top or the bottom of the left bracket hole where it hangs up as the panel obstructs the view. The panel goes into the right bracket hole (first) fine. I thought about enlarging the left bracket hole. Any other thoughts?

pauls said:

When I put in the left side of the gauge panel it will not go into the left bracket hole. I do not know if it is the top or the bottom of the left bracket hole where it hangs up as the panel obstructs the view. The panel goes into the right bracket hole (first) fine. I thought about enlarging the left bracket hole. Any other thoughts?

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I figured it out. No hack sawing the substructure. The issue was the harness jamming up behind the gauge panel so that the panel could not seat. The right and left gauge bracket holes are fine. I drew a picture of what happened. I haven't drawn since kindergarten so apologies. There is a compartment behind the gauge panel like a box. On the bottom of the box is a semicircular opening for the harness to pass. I felt the edge of the opening and it is as sharp as the edge of the gauge panel. The harness is braided and therefore not smooth. Between the sharp metal opening for the harness and the irregular surface of the harness itself when the harness passes through the opening the harness gets jammed. I call it the steel trap. I don't know how you guys reinstall the panel on your own. I salute you. If I did it on my own I would have to move the panel in 2 inches then get in the foot well and pull the harness a bit and keep repeating the process until I got the panel to seat. So I had my son work with me on this. As I moved the panel in he gently pulled the harness to eliminate slack. Once I figured this out the panel seated in literally 5 minutes. I was curious what would happen if I pulled the panel out with my son pushing the harness through the hole. It also came out in minutes. I figure that part of the problem removing and installing the gauge panel is that the harness hangs up in the harness opening (steel trap) in both directions. For me it is a two man job. For me understanding the significance of the steel trap is just as important as setting up to tape and towel. Again thanks to everyone who provided such useful information.

You are right. Do not give up your day job to become an artist.

Thanks for the critical info. Now, I just need to remember this, if I need to remove mine some day.

No need to remember. Search is your friend. You’ll also find other threads about how to get the instrument panel out.

Ive been trying to remove my cluster for a couple hours and have a question as it’s not coming out. How far does the left side come out before removing the speedo side? Mine is hanging up on the upper left side. My thumbs are behind it on left side, but still not working forward. Harness has slack….Thanks

Mine comes out better by starting on the speedo end.

And push up on binnacle housing slightly

I’m trying to use this thread as encouragement, but this is a bitch

After 4 hours, I gave up.

I recently found out that the original dash panel is not hard-coated as I originally thought, just black anodized.

I was able to strip and reanodize that panel after I radiused the edges for easier ingress and egress. It did not require the removal of backside studs that hard-coating required and it Turned out perfectly.

It is a bitch the first time you do it. I suggest the key is to press up on the top, and down on the bottom, of the plastic binnacle with your palms and knuckles to flex it a little bit. The edges of the instrument panel are sharp and will gouge the binnacle, so as others have said, use plenty of protective tape to prevent that.

I used a hook tool (like a dental tool) with plenty of tape on the binnacle. Got the hook behind and pulled forward. I started the pull on the speedo end. It was extremely tight all the way around. I'd be afraid of shaving it down.

twobjshelbys said:

I'd be afraid of shaving it down.

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It’s 1/4” thick with buttloads of sharp edges looking for something to scratch. The edges Should have been polished from the beginning.

You can anodize the polished edges perfectly when you are done.

2112 said:

I recently found out that the original dash panel is not hard-coated as I originally thought, just black anodized.

I was able to strip and reanodize that panel after I radiused the edges for easier ingress and egress. It did not require the removal of backside studs that hard-coating required and it Turned out perfectly.

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that’s a great idea!

DakotaGT said:

that’s a great idea!

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I did one to fit my CF wrapped binnacle already. Now that I know it works, I will take pictures of my original panel that I will do to fit the stock binnacle so that it won't scratch coming in and out (after I swap in the CF Binnacle and put the original on my shelf).

I did have to pay the minimum fee of $205 to have the anodizing done but It came out looking absolutely factory perfect.

Has anyone made a video on the procedure?